Camicia!

I've been needing to make new under garments for awhile, but have put it off for a year or two ( I really dislike rectangular construction).

So, I finally had a sewing day with some beautiful friends in my principality (SUMMITS!!), and they helped me math a pattern and cutting diagram.

(left)
My inspiration photo

(right)
My sewing diagram -
Front back panels - 41"
Sleeves - 41"
Gusset - 10"
Side panels - 41" L, 10" top, 20" bottom






I decided to french seam this undergarment due to to nature of the linen I was working with. It's the 2.8 oz IL030 from fabrics - store. I even french seamed my arm gussets! there's a tutorial on youtube for the process.

This is where Things Start To Go Side Ways.
Firstly, I ran out of thread half way through! Luckily, my big leaf
saved the day, and was able to give me some.

Then I sewed one of my side panels on upside down and backwards. I couldn't seam rip my fabric because it was too delicate.. I had to completely cut away the seam and start over.

So, all the french seams now being done.. I do a herring bone embroidery stitch as a seam treatment, copying the camicia of the woman on the right.

I then decided to Pull *ALL* the loose threads from the front, and tie them off in the back.
Only.. it wasn't the back.

***

While I'm taking a break from working on the body of the camicia, I started work on making a casing for the neck band. I had a pieces of fabric about 27" long by 17" wide. I pulled threads at every 3" wide mark, creating five 3" wide sections.

I sewed these together, end to end, and will iron them to form a casing ( like double fold bias tape).

***
I ended up just trimming the knots close to the body of the camicia, since I couldn't untie them. I sewed the casing to the body of the camicia, which was a persnickety process since the casing didn't want to stay put the way I ironed it. I sewed the back side of the casing first, then the front, so the front would look neater.

I added the neck band about this point. I sewed it on, and then folded them seam allowance down over it's self (trying to protect the delicate fabric as much as possible). I finished sewing the front side down

I pulled threads in the sleeves at the 1" mark, so I could have an easier time hemming.

I trimmed up the bottom hem (the bias in the side panels grew several inches!) And then stay stitches them to keep them from stretching again.


I then staystitched the bottom, and did a simple folded over hem.