Sailor jupiter in 1490! (Updated)

I love sailor moon. It has been one of my most cherished childhood memories. So, Sailor Jupiter is one of my role models. She is an even mix of masculine and feminine  (she gets into fights all the time, but also bakes). There is very little about her that I don't identify with.

After seeing a viking Sailor Scouts! And Morgan Donner's take an a mid 16th century Sailor Moon, I have decided to make an Venetian style gamurra, a la Sailor Jupiter.

I have purchased a green linen for the body of my gamurra, and I am repurposing raspberry silk pj's for the neck trim. I also found some rhaspberry linen for the sleeves.  .....update: I found some pink wool at st. Vinnies that I plan to use instead for trim and sleeves.

My pattern is based on Period pattern 41, and an old Tshirt. I made the bodice much shorter, and created a low scoop neck. I will be cartridge pleating rectangular panels for the skirt.

Here is my lining being cut. It's a green duck cloth that I bought from St. Vinnies. I was going to do three layers of duck cloth and pad stitch them together... but after reading about corded bodices from Jenny la Fleur, and Jen Thompson, I've decided to go in that direction.

Jenny La Fleur didn't cord her shoulder straps, so I figured I wouldn't either :P

After I cord the lining, I'll flat line the bodice with my green linen.

So there's my bodice after I added the cords. I used floral wire to pull the hemp through the channels. I stitched the seam allowance down to keep the cords in place, and then cut off the extra seam allowance.

I folded over the seam allowance of my linen over the corded interlining.. I whipped stitched this down (after using fray stop on my linen. I should've used pinking shears).

Here's a view of the front. Looks super clean. I have the entire front tacked down,
now just to do the same to the back lining.

Here's the lining being whipstitched into place.

I ended up having a small hiccup I didnt notice in my mock up. The armscyth in front wasnt deep enough, and ended up digging into my armpit. I had to take the lining off, cut into the bodice, and reattach the lining.

For my skirt, I cut 4 squares of fabric and sewed them together, to make one large width of fabric. I hemmed this, and sewd a 4 inch strip of pink wool about a foot from the bottom edge as a skirt gaurd. I then cartridge pleated the skirt with 1 inch gathers (total mistake. I took the skirt off and am repleating it with 1/2" pleats, finished by midwinters 2019).

I modified the sleeves from period pattern 41 so that the lower arm slides on, and the upper totally closed instead of lacing.

The front of the dress is finally attached to the skirt again. Completed 1/2019