Cioppa/ Pellanda dress diary

This image has been taunting me for months! I love the split sleeves and fur trim. I was recently gifted several yards of a red cotton velveteen to use for this project, and so I figured it's about time to start gathering resources and images in a cohesive manner. (Totally didn't end up using the velveteen lol).

While this garment would be considered old fashioned by 1490, it is still plausable that women would wear something similar. You see this style of dress with smaller, fitted sleeves still in paintings, and I believe it would still be worn at home.

I was not originally sure what shape the sleeves were, but after looking at more images (mostly earlier then I suspected) I have come to think that they are tubular with a set in shoulder.

(Carlo Crivelli, The Annunciation, with Saint Emidius 1486, detail)

(1430?)

(Updated) Materials:
Brown hopsack  linen for the body of the gown, and grey rabbit fur to trim sleeves.

I'm torn about what to line the sleeves with. I have some pale blue silk, or some brocade type fabric. :/ I picked a bright green linen for the sleeves lining and possibly trim.



So, after looking at multiple paintings, trying to figure out construction.. I think I'll be merging the original photo (of the goat girl in red) with the one of the lady in blue. I'll be doing the V neck in the second picture, with the sleeves from the red dress. I'll be copying the fur trim from the red dress as well, but with the additional trim from the blue dress. It'll also be full length.

 I've seen some ciopa's that are a single bodice/skirt, and are more like a loose gown, and I believe that might be a more popular style. However, there is plenty of evidence for a separate bodice and skirt. Originally I was planning on a separate bodice/skirt construction, but I have decided to go against this route - only because I want an easy to wear/lazy over dress.

8/22
I found This pattern which I think would work really well. I'll have to change the sleeve, but I think this might be a good option.

I bought the pattern, above. It's out of print, so it was a little hard to hunt down. I found it on etsy, for about $6. I'll be deepening the V neck, and leaving the front sleeve seems open.

So here's where I am so far, comparing my dress to my inspiration photos. I took my neckline down maybe 1.5" lower to better match the blue dress.

So, I've machine sewn the center back and front seams. I folded over my seam allowance on both sides, and used a running stitch to tack that down.



A big difference between the pattern and my dress is that I drafted a facing to include the armscye. I did that because I only plan on attaching the sleeve to the top of the shoulder. 

To help encase the sewn edges, I'm doing a running stitch just past my internal seam allowance.

4/2018

I finally finished this up in time for my Sargentry trials. I did manage to document more of this on my Facebook page, I just didn't remember to do so here. In the future, I need to remake the sleeves so that they're longer, and more voluminous.