Sailor jupiter in 1490! (Updated)

I love sailor moon. It has been one of my most cherished childhood memories. So, Sailor Jupiter is one of my role models. She is an even mix of masculine and feminine  (she gets into fights all the time, but also bakes). There is very little about her that I don't identify with.

After seeing a viking Sailor Scouts! And Morgan Donner's take an a mid 16th century Sailor Moon, I have decided to make an Venetian style gamurra, a la Sailor Jupiter.

I have purchased a green linen for the body of my gamurra, and I am repurposing raspberry silk pj's for the neck trim. I also found some rhaspberry linen for the sleeves.  .....update: I found some pink wool at st. Vinnies that I plan to use instead for trim and sleeves.

My pattern is based on Period pattern 41, and an old Tshirt. I made the bodice much shorter, and created a low scoop neck. I will be cartridge pleating rectangular panels for the skirt.

Here is my lining being cut. It's a green duck cloth that I bought from St. Vinnies. I was going to do three layers of duck cloth and pad stitch them together... but after reading about corded bodices from Jenny la Fleur, and Jen Thompson, I've decided to go in that direction.

Jenny La Fleur didn't cord her shoulder straps, so I figured I wouldn't either :P

After I cord the lining, I'll flat line the bodice with my green linen.

So there's my bodice after I added the cords. I used floral wire to pull the hemp through the channels. I stitched the seam allowance down to keep the cords in place, and then cut off the extra seam allowance.

I folded over the seam allowance of my linen over the corded interlining.. I whipped stitched this down (after using fray stop on my linen. I should've used pinking shears).

Here's a view of the front. Looks super clean. I have the entire front tacked down,
now just to do the same to the back lining.

Here's the lining being whipstitched into place.

I ended up having a small hiccup I didnt notice in my mock up. The armscyth in front wasnt deep enough, and ended up digging into my armpit. I had to take the lining off, cut into the bodice, and reattach the lining.

For my skirt, I cut 4 squares of fabric and sewed them together, to make one large width of fabric. I hemmed this, and sewd a 4 inch strip of pink wool about a foot from the bottom edge as a skirt gaurd. I then cartridge pleated the skirt with 1 inch gathers (total mistake. I took the skirt off and am repleating it with 1/2" pleats, finished by midwinters 2019).

I modified the sleeves from period pattern 41 so that the lower arm slides on, and the upper totally closed instead of lacing.

The front of the dress is finally attached to the skirt again. Completed 1/2019

Orange Gamurra

Have you ever seen the movie, "Ever After,"? The one with Drew Berrymore as Danielle? It's one of my favorite movies.. and I gotta say, I lurve me some of the costuming. The main dresses worn in this movie are (even though it's set in france), are Italian Gamura. Sure, they took a little creative license with them (Danielle's sleeves are circa 1490, while her bodice is roughly 1520). Marguerite's gowns are pretty decent though, and stay within one time period (later 1400's, early 1500).


I decided to make a gamurra, and purchased Period Pattern 41. I made it pretty true to the directions the first time, with the slight modification of changing the lacing from the back to the side (front and side lacing are documentable in paintings, but I have yet to see back lacing). My gamurra is a florentine style with a squared neck.

I bag lined the bodice with an old pillow case - there is no real support in the bodice. I whipped stitched the front to the back at the shoulder straps. The bodice laces closed with solid cast jewelry spacers I purchased at Joannes.

You can see a small gap in my neckline, and that's because my dress isn't laced tight enough. I also made a pair of orange sleeves that I am in the middle of finishing.

Over all, it's not a bad pattern. It's very easy to work with, and modify :D When I make my next gamurra, I'll be raising the waist line and adjusting the neckline to be a more venetian fashion.

Cioppa/ Pellanda dress diary

This image has been taunting me for months! I love the split sleeves and fur trim. I was recently gifted several yards of a red cotton velveteen to use for this project, and so I figured it's about time to start gathering resources and images in a cohesive manner. (Totally didn't end up using the velveteen lol).

While this garment would be considered old fashioned by 1490, it is still plausable that women would wear something similar. You see this style of dress with smaller, fitted sleeves still in paintings, and I believe it would still be worn at home.

I was not originally sure what shape the sleeves were, but after looking at more images (mostly earlier then I suspected) I have come to think that they are tubular with a set in shoulder.

(Carlo Crivelli, The Annunciation, with Saint Emidius 1486, detail)

(1430?)

(Updated) Materials:
Brown hopsack  linen for the body of the gown, and grey rabbit fur to trim sleeves.

I'm torn about what to line the sleeves with. I have some pale blue silk, or some brocade type fabric. :/ I picked a bright green linen for the sleeves lining and possibly trim.



So, after looking at multiple paintings, trying to figure out construction.. I think I'll be merging the original photo (of the goat girl in red) with the one of the lady in blue. I'll be doing the V neck in the second picture, with the sleeves from the red dress. I'll be copying the fur trim from the red dress as well, but with the additional trim from the blue dress. It'll also be full length.

 I've seen some ciopa's that are a single bodice/skirt, and are more like a loose gown, and I believe that might be a more popular style. However, there is plenty of evidence for a separate bodice and skirt. Originally I was planning on a separate bodice/skirt construction, but I have decided to go against this route - only because I want an easy to wear/lazy over dress.

8/22
I found This pattern which I think would work really well. I'll have to change the sleeve, but I think this might be a good option.

I bought the pattern, above. It's out of print, so it was a little hard to hunt down. I found it on etsy, for about $6. I'll be deepening the V neck, and leaving the front sleeve seems open.

So here's where I am so far, comparing my dress to my inspiration photos. I took my neckline down maybe 1.5" lower to better match the blue dress.

So, I've machine sewn the center back and front seams. I folded over my seam allowance on both sides, and used a running stitch to tack that down.



A big difference between the pattern and my dress is that I drafted a facing to include the armscye. I did that because I only plan on attaching the sleeve to the top of the shoulder. 

To help encase the sewn edges, I'm doing a running stitch just past my internal seam allowance.

4/2018

I finally finished this up in time for my Sargentry trials. I did manage to document more of this on my Facebook page, I just didn't remember to do so here. In the future, I need to remake the sleeves so that they're longer, and more voluminous. 

Luna's collection of links to tutorials, and materials

Fabric:

period fabric   (mostly medium to heavy weight wool)
Dormill Store    (nice selection, but pricey)
renaissance fabrics   (also sells silk and linen)
WM. booth draper (lovely selections)
carolina calicoes  (wool & linen)
Fabric Store   ( use ILOVELINEN to save 7%)
Wool trade (fair selection)
Fabric and art (cotton velvets and ribbon, etc)
faserhaus.com ( Good  variety of wool for early periods, and dye stuffs)
dharmatrading (Silk, Linen, Dye, etc)
B Black & sons (wool and linen. $$)
Silk Baron ( Silk )
Recreated-textiles ( wool fabric, and different spinning materials)
burnley & trowbridge (wool, linen and silks)
Elfriedes Fine Fabrics (wool and more, good prices)
Vogue Fabrics (swashes are $1, free shipping)
G street fabrics (silk,wool, linen)
96fabrics (wool,silk, + more )
fabric.com (many options)
Fabric Guru (nice sales! Wool/silk/more)

Crafting Materials:
high density cork (for chopines, etc)
Make your own Medieval (buckles, purse hangers, etc)


Tutorials:

Italian pocket purse, Saccoccia
great essays, especially on Italian dress   

London hood demo 
gollar with collar
gollar without collar
14th and 15th C., italian recipes
1570 artichoke and mozzarella crostata recipe
Girdle book cover
Woven button tutorial - back-stitched buttons
How to hand sew a rolled hem
Portuguese preserved oranges
Anonymous Venetian cookbook
DIY latchet shoes
Super simple neckline facing tutorial
Drawn Thead Work: The Hemstitch (Tutorial)


Italian Name Resources
Late period Italian women's names
Names of jewd in rome, in the 1550's
Names in 15th Century Florence and her Dominions: the Condado


Italian illuminations
Manuscript Illumination in Italy, 1400–1600


Helpful Articles
Women in frames

Tournabouni Chapel


Downloads:
Tailors pattern book, Juan de Alcega, 1580

Haithabu Bag Body and Embroidery

So, since Egils happened, and my wrist injury, my bag handles went on the back burner for a few weeks. That doesn't mean my whole bag did, though! Using the same green wool ( I had a lot of it lol), from my husbands hood, I cut out the shell of my bag. It'll be lined with a purple canvas.


I used a herringbone stitch to tack on a strip on maroon linen. I was planning on doing a double herring bone, but since this was my first time doing this stitch, I made them too small. lesson learned!

For the main focal point, I was going to embroider a charmander on a piece of maroon linen.. but then! I found a piece of gold silk that I had bought for another project a few years ago and never got around to using. so... I drew my design on to my linen, cut it out, and used iron inter facing to adhere the silk. I also used a herringbone stitch to attack then applique to my bag panel. I used a chain stitch to out/seal the edges of the linen.

I wasn't fond of how the single herringbone stitch looked on the outline of the charmander panel, so I'll be doing another layer in grey. I decided that I needed to add grey elsewhere to the bag, to keep it a little cohesive. I saw this on pinterest ( add me!!! www.pinterest.com/manderschan/ ), and thought it'd be a great way to add color. 

And here is what the charmander panel looks like so far. 

Haithabu Bag

While I was on pinterest the other day (you can follow me Here!), I saw the hedgby/ haithabu bag. Bags would make so much more sense for a viking lady compared to pouches, when you consider the lines of the clothing. I decided I needed to make one.. then, I saw one of my friends had also made one! It really set fire to my bag desire.

I decided to make my bag 12" x 12," in wool with a linen lining. My handle choice is inspired by the larger middle one, with the pretty rounded top.

Yesterday I went to Home Depot, where they have lumber that you can buy by the foot. I chose a 1" x 4" piece of walnut, that had some really nice grain. I had the associate cut it into two 12" pieces for me. After looking at my base image, and other bag handles, I had a pretty good idea of what I was looking for design wise. I drew it on tracing paper first, so I could see how the grain would sit within the template. When I was happy with the placement, and how the overall design looked, I transferred my drawing onto a paper grocery bag to cut out. I used a 50¢ for the big sphere in the center, and the end pieces, while a quarter was used to everything else.

It's 12" wide, and about 3" inches tall. 

4/5

I have the first part of my handle cut! I haven't done a wood working project in about 14 years, so it's a process lol! My husband (who *is* a carver, et l'artiste extradenaire) helped me saw out the rounded bits, and showed me a few tips to make it easier to saw out.

Green Viking Hood

I made my lovely husband, Mr. Bellamy, a viking hood (kinda.. I cut it, pinned it, then he got excited and decided to hand sew it himself :D). As you might have read from my previous post, I had an army blanket cutting mishap; this is made from the wool scrap. I followed this tutorial here, but had to tweak it slightly since the mister is a larger guy. I just made everything a few inches bigger, and cut down the gussets until Mr. Bellamy was happy with the fit. He hand sewed the wool using a mustard cotton embroidery thread.

This was probably one of the easiest patterns to do. It's seriously only a rectangle, with two square gussets sewn into it.

 

We'll be adding linen trim along the bottom edges, and a possible lining. I also want to embroider a Vegvísir, (nordic compass) on the right hand shoulder; while not period, the vegvisir is a good for the vagabond Mr. Bellamy, and is easily recognizable as norse.